GIORGIO ARMANI 2004-2005秋冬男装系列

　　时装解构下的细腻男儿风范

　　自Giorgio Armani 开始进行实验性时装解构之后，其服饰系列时刻展现细腻性感的特质。而个中所流露那出奇不已的性感诱惑，并不在于形式和色彩上的刻意铺排，而是源自不着痕迹的微妙变化及细部的点染而浑然天成。Giorgio Armani女装系列，以擅于表现中性路线而享负盛名，款式与男士服饰不遑多让，让女士们尽显潇洒风格。今个秋冬，Giorgio Armani再次施展突破常规的演绎方法，通过魅力凝聚、轻柔细腻的服饰，让一众雄赳赳的男儿，展露女性温柔的一面，自我陶醉之余，亦勇于挑战时装界尺度 。

　　Giorgio Armani不断寻求突破风格，今季塑造崭新的男士形象与美国人今日称为「都会型男」概念同出一辙，并标志着其多年来一直探索之男装路向。今季男装系列以柔软及流动性作主题：摈弃过于修长与纤幼线条的风格，取而代之是略带松身而又不流于极端的设计，充分体验设计带来之舒适感。外套选用了包括针织和织锦等甚为搭配的布料。至于长裤设计宽松度得宜，令整体比例均匀合度。

　　此外，系列今季展示崭新 “George” 外套款式，其袖及肩位呈现Armani一贯风格之余，同时注入流线型及轻柔感觉：袖孔位置于较高位置，肩位则由似有若无的肩垫稍作承托，流露几分硬朗感。 “Beckham” 羊毛针织外套于今季有崭新演绎，系列除贯彻柔滑特性之余，外套背部同时加添薄纱，营造完美挺身效果。事实上，所有外套衬里均经过最严谨处理及确保饰以最上乘华贵衬里。

　　为突显全新男装系列及其舒适剪裁，织锦布料上选用了曾在春夏系列中大获好评的鲜明几何图案，玩味十足的图案可随意配衬多款黑白幼条子长裤，感觉时尚。

　　今季必备的全新恤衫系列，优雅不凡，为毕挺的西装平添魅力。T 恤方面，今季于简单舒适风格基础上再创新犹；长身时尚的外套，以流丽的线条营造出风度翩翩的意态。更为震撼的是重新定义的晚宴服：衬以针织物及缀以针织缝线外套，以至讲究的燕尾礼服均一应俱全，展现男士俊朗的风范。

　　色调方面以朱古力及焦糖色为主，不可或缺的还有一系列Armani千锤百炼的灰色，由矿物灰、淡灰延展至深灰调子。

　　GIORGIO ARMANI MEN’S COLLECTION

　　AUTUMN/WINTER 2004.2005

　　Ever since Giorgio Armani started his experiments with deconstruction, there has always been something delicately sensual about his collections. But his type of sex appeal relies on nuance and detail to create that frisson, that unexpected thrill, rather than an obvious assault on form and colour. In his womenswear, Giorgio Armani is famed for travelling a path of gender ambiguity, daring to allow the female to appropriate male styles. Now for Autumn/Winter, he claims some femininity for the male sex, through seductive, soft and gentle clothing which dares to toy with notions of narcissism.

　　This look is what Americans today call “metrosexual”, a trend that Armani has been exploring for some years now, as he searches for the unexpected. The main features of this season are softness and fluidity: no more excessively slender and svelte lines, but a more loose and restrained look that caresses the body. The jackets are in accommodating fabrics like jersey and jacquard, and the trousers are not over baggy but well proportioned.

　　The “George” jacket introduces a new silhouette, with sleeves and shoulders in pure Armani style, but streamlined and softened: the armhole is high and contained, the shoulder is supported by modest and invisible padding, implying the slightest suggestion of power. The “Beckham” jacket in wool jersey is evolving, while maintaining an almost liquid, fluid line. It is backed with jersey organza, which strengthens and supports it perfectly. In fact all the jacket interiors are finished to the highest specification and embellished with luxurious linings.

　　To emphasize the new lines and comfortable sizing, even the jacquard fabrics display conspicuous geometric patterns which pick up on the mini patterns that were such a resounding success in the summer collection. This play on patterns is reinforced by casual mixing and matching: look for the black and white thin-striped trousers.

　　An absolute must-have is the new ultra-refined range of elegant shirts, which give the suits that touch of glamour. It is time to move on from the overworked casual simplicity of the T-shirt. To complete this sophisticated look, there are long and beautifully fashioned coats with flowing clean lines. Also, there is some particularly striking reworked eveningwear: from a jacket backed with jersey and finished with jersey-type stitching, to long tail coats, dandy style.

　　Colours are sophisticated and include cocoa and caramel. There is, of course, a full range of Armani’s celebrated greys - from mineral and watery, through to the darkest shade