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EMPORIO ARMANI
2004-2005秋冬系列
时装犹如音乐:摇滚的澎湃动力、地下音乐的强劲节奏、饶舌音乐的都市触觉;时装又如运动:充满活力,带点自我陶醉的态度,朝着完美体态而奋斗,以上两者充分说明了Giorgio Armani 命名为 ‘City Glamour’ 的Emporio Armani 04-05秋冬系列主题:深刻叛逆的诱惑,突破成规,捕捉现代都市生活的脉搏。
无尽惊喜之中率先揭开序幕的是并发原创意念的系列,目标是重新塑造穿者的线条美感和重组衣橱而设:流露时尚品味的都会男士,着重衣着的轻巧流丽、富流线美及揉合新旧形式对比所展现的意趣,Giorgio Armani因而设计出如恤衫般轻身的外套、缀以鲜明细部的恤衫、带套头衬衣影子的优雅双排钮扣外套。另一焦点是取自同一主题的条纹外套 ─ 一件仿如孖襟外套般的恤衫,选用最为轻身的条纹布料,大师级的功架表现得淋漓尽致。
布料的发挥亦游刃有余:崭新的厚身寛松花呢仿如全人手编织;棉质则预先经过多重洗涤处理,营造出二手的效果;至于柔软的针织以长身的修身羊毛衣形式登场,舒适感无可比拟;即使是一贯线条硬朗的皮革,今季亦注入了温柔的「弹性」元素,带来高度轻身效果,同时增加了可穿性。
恰到好处的完美西裤剪裁,不会过窄的裤管摈弃了拉链和遮盖拉链的部分,显得格外俐落,重点则集中在选用了色丁或其他闪亮布料,配衬T恤能突显其经洗水的哑面效果;与一系列缀上轻金属衬料的高科技布料衣物如 Caban外套、连帽大衣、长身外套等等互相辉映。设计隐隐流露军褛意味的外套采用了氯丁橡胶(neoprene)质料,轻身却无比温暖,用色方面在天蓝和灰蓝的调子中注入了出奇不已的绿和红;当中加添黑和午夜蓝的色调,并大量饰以细小图案、几何图案及以不同阔度条纹随意舖排而成,为外套锦上添花。
与此同时,Emporio Armani推出全新系列的运动服装:体现时尚风格的运动服系列EA 7,规模虽小但设计却异常严谨。教人爱不释手的色彩包括午夜蓝、黑和白,配合充满朝气和夸张图样的设计,以及全新高科技质料,特别为酷爱运动人士而设,再配以EA 7的运动型轻便袋和衬饰,别树一格的Armani 式优雅运动形象即时展现眼前。
EMPORIO ARMANI
AUTUMN / WINTER 2004-2005
Fashion like music: with the energy of rock, the beat of the underground, and the urban edge of rap. Fashion like sport: alive, narcissistic, about the body at its best. All this to define what Giorgio Armani calls ‘City Glamour’ – an intense and rebellious seduction, which breaks conventions to meet the beat eclectic needs of urban life today.
One of many surprises in a collection bursting with originality, is its intent to reshape the profile and wardrobe of its wearer: the metro-man with sophisticated urban tastes, who insists that his clothes should be lightweight and fluid, streamlined and with a dash of irony derived from the contrast of old and new forms: a jacket as light as a shirt; a shirt with eye-catching details; a jacket with the touch of a pullover, but elegantly double-breasted. An amusing take on this theme, the Stripe Jacket - a shirt structured like a double-breasted jacket, in the lightest of striped fabrics.
Fabrics are manipulated: tweeds are given a thicker, more open weave, as if knitted by hand. Lived in cottons are treated with heavy washes for a worn look, while soft jersey features in long fitted wool coats, wonderfully comfortable to wear. Even leather is imbued with a new “stretch” quality for maximum lightness and practicality.
Perfectly balanced trousers, not too narrow, without zip or fly, but often in satin or other shiny fabrics, reflecting the washed matt T-shirts. Cabans, parkas, overjackets, all made in techno-fabrics with light metallic padding. Overcoats assume a vaguely military bearing in magnificent neoprene, warm but ultra-lightweight. In sky blue and blue-grey shades with unexpected dashes of colour, such as greens and reds. Black and midnight blue tints. An abundance of tiny patterns, geometric, with stripes that vary in thickness and occur at irregular intervals.
Emporio Armani also launches its new range of athletic wear: a small, rigorously edited collection, with a strong accent on style. Its ‘code name’ is EA 7. Favourite colours: midnight blue, black, white. Dynamic, explosive graphic designs. New techno-materials for genuine fitness enthusiasts. Bags and accessories for the complete Armani sport look.
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